WHAT IS IT ABOUT SOUTH AFRICAN BRANDIES that make them so special, yet, why are they underappreciated by the broader population in the country? We speak to the connoisseurs, who raise their glasses for elevating their favorite tipple.
South Africa, with one of the oldest wine routes outside of France is, unsurprisingly, a producer of top-class wines. And beyond wine, brandy, in particular, is another top-class spirit produced here, a fact most locals are unaware of. Often dismissed as part of brandewyn en coke (brandy and Coke drink combination) culture, South African brandy is actually of such high quality, it regularly cleans up at international awards shows.
When looking at what sets South African brandies apart, there are a few components at play. Firstly, it’s worth noting there are three primary categories of brandy: Pot still or Cape, Vintage and Blended brandy. Pot still/Cape and blended brandies make up the majority of the category. Pot still/Cape brandy is made exclusively from copper pot still distillation and aged for at least three years. This represents the traditional and artisanal style of brandy production, while blended brandy is a mix of at least 30% pot still, and unmatured spirits, designed to be more affordable and versatile, and used for mixers and cocktails.
Secondly, the grapes used to make the base wines for distillation start by being exceptional. Chenin blanc and Colombard are the most common grapes used for brandy production and with South Africa’s prolific wine industry, it’s no surprise that these grapes become excellent wines. South African brandies are also characterized by rigorous production standards, which include the minimum aging period. The country’s regulations require that brandy must be aged for at least three years, surpassing the minimum aging period for cognac, which is two and a half years.
“In practice, many South African brandies are aged far beyond this requirement, developing a depth of flavor that is unmatched,” says John Loomes, CEO of KWV, one of South Africa’s leading wine and spirits producers. “The warmer climate in South Africa allows grapes used in brandy production to reach full ripeness with higher sugar levels, resulting in brandies that exhibit rich, sun- dried fruit notes both on the nose and palate. This warmer climate also accelerates the aging process, enhancing the aromatic intensity and concentration of the brandies.” He continues by saying that this often results in 20-year-old South African brandies developing characteristics that would typically take 35 years in Europe. “This leads to a rich and complex flavor profile that is highly regarded by international connoisseurs,” says Loomes.
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With distilleries such as KWV drawing on techniques as far back as 1926, the local brandy industry has long been held to such a high standard. “The quality was high from the beginning and was originally formulated to be enjoyed with a mixer,” says Johan Venter, a renowned master distiller. “Our production methods were prescribed and were different to the rest of the world. We use a pot still, while the rest of the world mainly uses column stills. We use small barrels (smaller than 340 liters) and the minimum age is three years, whereas the rest of the world uses large barrels with little maturation time, roughly six months.”
Ultimately, the regulations around brandy are what uphold its quality and importance in local spirit production. “The industry adheres to regulations that dictate production methods, aging, and classification,” says Shane Mumba, brand ambassador for the South African Brandy Foundation and member of The Black Cellar Club, or BLACC, a nonprofit focused on education in wines and spirits in the hospitality sector. “We have strict legislation for brandy production. The South African Brandy Foundation established by the industry in 1984 protects the heritage and integrity of South African brandy.”
The nod to heritage here is important in understanding the complexity of brandy, as well as its reception and popularity. It’s believed that the first-recorded brandy distillation took place in 1672, aboard a Dutch ship anchored in Table Bay. “The cook managed to distil 1,000 liters of Cape wine into about 130 liters of brandy and the South African brandy story started,” says Mumba. “The Dutch, and later the French Huguenots, brought with them a wealth of knowledge in viticulture and distillation, laying the foundation for South African brandy.” It would be centuries later until brandy began to develop some traction, but this legacy has culminated in a globally-recognized product. As recently as May, at the 2024 International Spirits Challenge, KWV was one of three local producers to win gold.
Leah van Deventer is an award-winning spirits and drinks writer, judge and consultant and says that these awards underpin the quality of local brandy, but highlights why that doesn’t necessarily translate to popularity at home. “South African brandy is a world leader in the category, and it has double gold medals and best-in-class awards from multiple blind-tasting competitions to prove it,” says Van Deventer. “That said, you can have a brilliant product, and it may still not be to someone’s personal taste, in terms of both their consumer bias and their preferred flavor profile.” Simply put, brandy – even one that systematically wins global accolades – is not everyone’s cup of tea and there’s data to back this up.
KWV’s Loomes says that only an estimated 4% of the African population currently consumes brandy or cognac. He attributes this to brandy’s public perception and how it’s viewed in comparison to other spirits. “Locally, South African brandy often competes with the long-established prestige of cognac, which has become synonymous with luxury in the minds of many consumers, mainly due to its imported status. Despite the world-class quality of our brandies, this perception can sometimes overshadow local appreciation of just how good they are.”
Venter agrees, adding that in the early 1990s, when imported whiskey became too expensive, local whiskey was introduced as a substitute, further taking the spotlight off brandy. “South African whiskey is a fantastic product and at the time it was considered much classier to drink whiskey than brandy,” Venter adds. “But the misuse of brandy in South Africa gave it a very bad reputation.”
This lesser view of brandy, coupled with the rise of interest in cognac, also comes back to the history of the spirit. “Within its home country, brandy is still often seen as a White man’s tipple, with the historical stigma that goes with that,” says Van Deventer. She adds that it is beginning to gain traction within the Black community, thanks to the work of associations like BLACC, but there’s still a lot of work to be done.
Mumba echoes this, saying education is a key driver. “Brandy production is a complex and intricate process. Very few people know how much time and care goes into producing brandy.” He continues by saying that most South Africans simply aren’t aware of their award-winning brandies. “The more South Africans know about the incredible brandies we have and the time it takes to make this golden liquid, the more interested they will be.” Loomes adds that to invigorate interest, there must be continued emphasis on the local brandy’s exceptional quality.
“And in the case of our pot stills, these are not only on par with but often surpasses cognac in taste and quality.” This is particularly key in emerging markets where the rising costs of cognac present a clear opportunity for local brandies. Mumba also highlights how the reframing of brandy can help with its reception. “The versatility of blended brandy makes it a wonderful choice for mixers and cocktails, but it also calls for greater creativity within the category,” he says. “This presents a great opportunity for entrepreneurs to create ready-to- drink aperitifs to attract a younger and new consumer.”
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